The Spirit of Hope – Lessons from Dharavi Slums

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There were times when tourists avoided traveling to cities in India due to the tackiness, stench, and insecurity (post 2008 terrorist attacks). However, the tourism industry boosted after Slumdog Millionaire snatched eight Oscars, and we were among the many Americans foreigners who arrived on this cultural land to witness and compare the slumdogs in the movie and reality.

Famously known as Reality Tours, Elisa and I decided to witness the paucity and griminess in the streets of Dharavi, Asia’s largest slum vicinity in Mumbai, India. We hired an Indian guide, Satish, who dwelled in the same filthiness, to get a closer and perfect tour around the area. Prior to entering the poverty border, Satish informed us that over 55% of Mumbai’s population dwelled in these slums, which was staggering figure of 1 million people.

We were taken to the nearby Leopold Café for tea and breakfast. This was more out of chance than choice because we had flat tires just after starting from our hotel. 30 minutes later we were back on our seats and zoom we went.

Though the traffic signals revealed much about the poverty in the country, the sight of broken-sheltered house under one of the railway crossovers was quite commiserating. Looking at the diminutive shirtless boy treading around the shed, Satish told us that, children in poverty-struck India aren’t sent to school for studying. Instead, they were sent to nearby construction sites to work. Elisa couldn’t swallow the fact while I managed to persist a smile, but neither of us knew it was just the beginning of a sympathizing and grief-stricken tour. This hut under the overpass also served as a signal for most of the other boys to find their way home because they are not basically from Mumbai.

Passing through the red light area of Mumbai, we didn’t see many females there as it was morning hours. We halted at Dhobi Ghat, a huge, 136-year old washing area in Mumbai, where thousands of men washed clothes by beating the damp clothes on systematically arranged stones. It was quite a weird way of washing but we enjoyed it. People were joyous and seemed to enjoy their job. We received few smiles while passing through them.

After a minute of dodging, we finally managed to cross the busy street and enter the never-ending slums of Dharavi. From the first one to the last, every house can be defined as – a semi-dark, small hut with knobless doors and varying crannies. Looking at the garbage-strewn tapered pathways, we exchanged glances more than a couple of times. But I found Elisa as astonished as I was. How could someone possibly spend their lives in such mess, stench, poverty, dirtiness, and with happiness? Yes, people there, though not filled with ecstasy, were quite content and happy.

At every door we got a welcoming smile. Following us throughout the tour was a small troop of half-naked, skinny children asking for few rupees and food. Somewhere while sauntering through the slums we halted at a fruit-seller and bought some oranges to distribute among children. Before I could give the first one away, they snatched it and fought to get a diminutive piece.

They were hungry, yet laughing. They were combating, yet with kindliness. We aren’t content with many luxuries we own. But these toddlers, unknown about basic amenities are contented, cheerful, and with unvarying spark in their eyes. My heart was filled with pity, affection, and love for people dwelling here with vigor and liveliness. I couldn’t talk to Elisa, but I saw her wiping her damp eyes. Maybe her heart too was teeming with compassion and empathy.

On our way back to hotel we were quiet, not yet ready to talk about the contradicting blend of Dharavi. A young child, with numerous fresh, colorful roses in his hand, knocked the window of my car and cheerfully persuaded us to buy few flowers. Hope is what’s keeping them alive and going. I bought all of them and he gaily walked away with a smile.

Though it wasn’t a pleasing one, this excursion taught me few important lessons of life. With so many things and achievements to enjoy, we are always grumbling and complaining. With so many amenities and wealth, our cheerfulness is short-lived and very brief. In search of major successes and accomplishments, we often overlook minute pleasures of life. They celebrate Christmas, Diwali, and Eid with equal vigor and cheerfulness, while we, as individuals and countries, keep fighting over minor issues. We have completely forgotten the concept of unity, cooperativeness, and happiness. Hope is what we need, significantly.

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